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A 'punch' update!

 
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mikky



Joined: 15 Dec 2016
Posts: 19


Location: Scotland

PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2017 11:35 pm    Post subject: A 'punch' update!  Reply with quote

Well, my workmate still has not delivered the carburettor or the air filter for the 35 dl Suffolk Punch as yet, perhaps during the coming week if we are on the same shift pattern.
He did however give me another punch engine, deck and blades and the push handles, as spares.
The engine is minus the cylinder head, which he hopes to find and give to me along with all the other things.
I have a slight problem though, in that there is a bolt still in the cylinder.
I've soaked it in 3 in 1 oil over the last week and tried today to remove it carefully with my small mole grips but to no avail, as this bolt is only showing about a 1/4 inch of the head, perhaps even less. (About 1 and a half threads.)
There is no way the correct sized nut could be fitted to the bolt, and i have been informed not to heat an aluminium head as it will warp.
So is my solution to try and drill it out, or just to leave it as a spare 'practise' piece.
All thoughts much appreciated!
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brewer66



Joined: 06 Apr 2014
Posts: 295


Location: South Yorkshire

PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you are good with a welder, gradually (so you don't over heat the ally head) build a few blobs of weld on to the stud.
Then you can get a good purchase on the weld with the mole grips.
Generally works.  
If you are like me and don't weld, find someone who can.  
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Gareth



Joined: 07 Mar 2007
Posts: 6717


Location: Norwich, Norfolk, UK.

PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 10:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can the item be fully immersed and soaked in either diesel or paraffin for 48-72 hours?

Paraffin & diesel work much better than most penetrating fluids, but the best of the Penetrating fluids is Plus Gas.


Is it a bolt head that is showing or is it a nut on a stud?

If it is a nut it can be cut away with a Dremal and disc.

If it is a bolt there are several ways of approaching it.

1) Weld a larger nut on and the heat conducting down the shaft of the bolt will make the difference and break the galvanic corrosion and it should not cause warping in the aluminium.

2) Find a local garage that has an induction heater: these are becoming very common these days https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFh8Pci5gpc

3) find a local engineers with a spark-eroder, again these are becoming more common place https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjCytNO1lNU
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mikky



Joined: 15 Dec 2016
Posts: 19


Location: Scotland

PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Much thanks to brewer66 and Gareth for your most useful information--i will try all of your points over the next couple of weeks and post an update too.

If all else fails, then i have spare valves, springs, the piston, rings and all the other ancillary's from it, which can be cleaned and used for spares for the working engine.

I am presuming here that valves, springs, piston's and the like are all interchangeable on these suffolk punch engines?

Is plus gas still around? Wow, i thought that stuff went out with the ark to be honest!

Yes, i do have access to derv, oils and greases from my work place, so this should not be an insurmountable problem.

There are many on here who must have worked on these little engines for many a year, your knowledge and expertise is valuable to many like me so, once again, thank you so much for your input.
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mikky



Joined: 15 Dec 2016
Posts: 19


Location: Scotland

PostPosted: Wed Mar 08, 2017 12:17 am    Post subject: just an update... Reply with quote

My friend at work has given me a grass box for one of my suffolks, it is from a colt though and will need slight adaption to fit my 35dl.

He is still on the look out for the cylinder head, the carb and the air filter, they may be there when i get back to work from a weeks holidays, but i'm not holding any breaths! (It's free stuff, so who am i to rush him, i can wait!)

I've started stripping the spare engine down, valves and springs are good, as is the cam and followers.

I'm starting on the piston and all it's component parts on thursday and will likely wipe the block clean and then dump it into a bath of diesel, it can be left for two or three days and then with some luck the stubborn cylinder head bolt will shift...that's the plan anyway

This is just a 'practice' engine to work on, which i have really enjoyed stripping, so after rebuilding--(which i am sooo looking forwards to now i have some time)--all components will be cleaned and, if needed, painted.

Thank you for reading!!
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horace



Joined: 22 Jul 2009
Posts: 4227


Location: yorkshire

PostPosted: Wed Mar 08, 2017 9:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good luck with it
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mikky



Joined: 15 Dec 2016
Posts: 19


Location: Scotland

PostPosted: Wed Mar 08, 2017 9:54 pm    Post subject: Simply could not wait! Reply with quote

Well, i said that i would start stripping the rest of the engine on the 35dl suffolk on thursday.....i simply could not wait any longer Horace and so did it today!

The oil flicker is a good 'un, possibly new, and there was absolutely no wear or tear on the bearing shell, nor on the crank itself.....nothing, not even a scratch.

When i took the piston out, the bore was immaculate, just clear oil down the sides, same with the piston, clean as a whistle. (Possibly all new innards i'm wondering?)

I cleaned all the internals up with white spirit, and did the same with the casing inside and out.

Not much else to do now but wait for other parts, so i'll dump everything in a bath of diesel and let it fester for a while, maybe put it back together at the week end.

Thank you for reading!
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confused



Joined: 30 Mar 2008
Posts: 1032


Location: bonny scotland

PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well done you .


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