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Jonty

Wet Spaniel Brewery mkII

I've just ordered one of these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190563943606

and two of these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190575969764

To convert into a new all brewery set up.  I should be comfortably able to make 60-70 litres at a time  
bodger

Looking good Jonty.
maine moose

They look good tools for the job Jonty,look forward to your reports of "the brew"
Jonty

Well the pots arrived this morning. Theyre whoppers !!  My 2 year old son can comfortably sit inside them with the lids on, ok, he's comfortable but not very happy

Looking forward to fettling now  
Cooey

You won't be disappointed with the insulated pot. I assume it will be  the mashtun? Mine looses less than 1 degree over a 90 minute mash it was a big step forward for my brewery.
Jonty

Cooey wrote:
You won't be disappointed with the insulated pot. I assume it will be  the mashtun? Mine looses less than 1 degree over a 90 minute mash it was a big step forward for my brewery.


Thanks for that maate, yes it will be the tun so positive info is well appreciated.
Jonty

Bit of a good find today.  I managed to pick this up at a bargain price from a local brew shop.  It's a 40 plate 75kW heat exchanger that I'll use to lower the temperature of the hot wort (unfermented beer) from near boiling to 20 degrees C for yeast pitching temperature.  The wort is vulnerable to unwanted bugs/infections until th eyeast gets going so most people crash cool to a temperature where the yeast can be safely added.  Basically you run cold water in through the short threaded inlet at the top, hot wort in throgh the longer copper fitting at the top and get hot water out of the bottom threaded outlet and cool wort out of the bottom copper fitting.  My cold water supply will be re-circulated from a rain water butt.

The equivalent new would have cost me approx £75-80 delivered, I managed to get this for £20

Jonty

I attempted to make a start on making my copper (boiler) last night.  Basically it's going to be a bdooly big pan with a tap on it.  The tap will have a filter on it to stop bits of hops/grain etc getting through into the final beer.  The copper will be gas heated so its all nice and simple.

Anyway, like I said, I attempted to make a start by drilling the hole for the tap, but despite buyng some tinanium coated hss dril bits they weren't really touching the stainless steel pot, so rather than risk hardening the steel by continuous drilling, I've ordered some cobalt bits which should be more up to the job.

Anyway, here's an idea of the size of the pots, they're 100l and were shipped from Germany - I reckon that if any of you cooks out there were after a big stock pot, try the company I got these from, the 100l were less than £40 delivered so I reckon you'd get a more maneageable 30l or 50l for £30 - £35

Jonty

Blimey, all I can say is buy cobalt drills for stainless!!  Made another start on the pots tonight, I wanted to get the taps fitted.  This requires a 21mm hole in the pot to which you fit a tank connector (a plumbing connection which you can screw a tap/valve to).  The best way to cut a hole that size in a stainless pot is to usr a Q-Max punch which as it sounds, punches a hole through the metal rather than drilling it.  In order to use the punch, you still need to drill a pilot hole, which with the bits I had was a bit of an epic.  I bought a cobalt (dogd danglies)3mm bit to start the hole off and then thought I could use cheaper titanium coated bits to cet me up to 11mm - big mistake!!  it wouldbe much easier to het a couple of bigger cobalt bits, it effectively took me 2 hours to cut 2 holes, the cobalt bit ripped through the metal, the big delay was in using the standard drill bits - lesson learned.

Anyway....

Here's the 21mm hole cut with the Q-Max punch after the pilot hole was labouriously drilled, you can see the punch and the cut circle of stainless above the hole, the white flecks are cutting fluid to keep the metal cool whislt drilling.



Then fit the tank connector, here it is from the outside



And the inside



The thread of the tank connector make it possible to screw on a ball valve which is effectively the tap



after more drilling and swearing, then there were two...



Few more holes to drill, and more fixings etc to make, but at least I feel like I've made a start.
HonkHonk

 looking good mate.
Border

Looking forward to seeing the finished set-up.
Jonty

Finished the boiler last night with the addition of a hop filter.  The wort (unfermented beer) you produce in the brewing process is sweet (sugar turns to alcohol etc) so you need to make it bitter, you do this by boiling it with hops which, depending on when you addd them give you both bitterness and aroma.  When you drain the boled wort out of the boiler into a fermenter, you want to leave all the hops/hop seeds/crud behind so you need a filter attached to the tap.  Basically this one is a shaped piece of 15mm copper pipe with some holes drilled in the underside.  Uou'll notice that the tap is well above the bottom of the pot - to enable it to drain completely, you use a syphon effect by having a short length of hose on the tap outlet, as long as the outlet hose is below the level of the bottom of the pot, it will drain easily without the need for any pumping or suction.  Isn't physics brilliant!!  By putting the holes only on the underside of the filter, you can get better drainage than if you had them all around the pipe, I've just tested the new pot and it drains down really well only leaving about 220ml which isn't too bad for a 100l pot.

BTW, reason that I've offset the filter rather than having it come straight out of the back of the tap is that as the filter is removable for cleaning, I can guarantee that the holes will be 100% flush with the bottom of the pot every time I replace it.

Isn't it amazing the impact of the X-factor... it just makes me want to out into my garage and drill 60 - odd 1.5mm holes in a piece of copper pipe!!



Jonty

Started the mash tun today, basically a mash tun is a large insulated conatiner where you steep malt and hot water (it looks like porridge!) to get all the sugars out of the malt.  The process works best at 66 degrees and you need to steep it, or rather mash for 90 minutes - hence the insulation to try and keep a constant 66 degrees.

I deed to put a drain in the bottom of the tun, I'll be using a boat gull fitting to act as the drain and then a perforated stainless steel sheet cut to size to act as a filter to keep the malt in the tun whilst the sweet wort drains out.

My tun is effectively a big (50 litre) thermos flask.  It's double skinned with insulation between so it takes some cutting.

Here's the required sized hole inside the tun



I had to cut away a bifgger hole in the outer skin to allow me to fit the hole punch.  Also, you need some space to work when fixing the through hull fitting in place.  You can get an idea of the thickness of the insulation here also.



More fettling and swearing to be done later ........
Jonty

Told you they were big!!  

HonkHonk

           
kaz



Good post - keep it going

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