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bodger

Rats

Winter is the time that rats traditionally move onto the farm and our smallholding is no different. We found  some fresh rat droppings around the log pile when at the weekend we moved some logs closer to the house. There wasn't alot, but there was enough and it was fresh.
I immediately used the last of the rat poison and I bought some more this morning. It wasn't cheap but I couldn't afford not to buy some. I bought Neosorexa wax blocks from the local farm merchants. I usually get a large bag of Neokil direct from Killgerm.
I've also resited five Fenn type traps and made sure that they're where they should do the most good. Blind Pugh also constructed a new wooden tunnel to put one of them in. I hate rats and try my best to keep them away. Ugh!!!!!
Polly

You can borrow my Molly - DH let her out last night and she shot up the back garden, bad hips notwithstanding and caught a mouse!  

He called her off it as we usually do, to prevent the 3 of them fighting over anything caught and she left it, came back in like a dog with two tails.  

The mouse got away but I don't think it would have been around for long after!
lizzie44

Watch out Bodger. My JRT and a friends terrier have ended up at the vets after eating the wax blocks. The rats seem to be able to move them out into the open and dogs find them irresistible so please just be extra careful. Love Lizzie
p.s No lasting damage done to either dog - thank God
bodger

The blocks have holes in them, a bit like green polo's and I use wire to fasten them to something.
sod

bodger we use bait blocks, we put them in a short length of plastic pipe with a wire through holes out each end and along outside then twisted together so can even be put in the open on their tracks
chicken feed

sod wrote:
bodger we use bait blocks, we put them in a short length of plastic pipe with a wire through holes out each end and along outside then twisted together so can even be put in the open on their tracks


we do just the same
matt the rat

chicken feed wrote:
sod wrote:
bodger we use bait blocks, we put them in a short length of plastic pipe with a wire through holes out each end and along outside then twisted together so can even be put in the open on their tracks


we do just the same


What put them in the open on their tracks?

God, I hope not.

Relocation is a huge problem with block formulations, and that, along with the palatability problem is why I prefer whole wheat formulations.
Lorrainelovesplants

Ive been using Eraser but dont think the rats like it....
bait stations not really touched, but holes getting bigger and more of them....
bodger

Matt, I've used Neokil on whole wheat in bait stations for many years now, but I've been having problems with snails. They love the stuff and I can't keep them off it. We have a particular problem with our own place and bait is shredded and ruined in a matter of a few days. Thats why I thought that i'd give the wax blocks a try. I tie them together and fix them to somewhere so that the rats have to eat it to be able to remove it. Always under cover of course.
matt the rat

Bodger, buy some small sandwich bags and put 100g of Neokil in each one and knot it.

You can use the knotted part of the bag to jam it under the lid of a bait station, or just push the bags into any burrows you find.

The bait will stay fresh and slug/snail free until the rats break into the bags.  Rats seem to love to open the bags up and will readily eat the fresh bait they contain.

Be aware that bait labels are changing and you will no longer be able to keep bait down permenantly now.  We tend to use whole wheat bagged up as a non-toxic indicator, and then switch over to toxic bait when and if we get bait takes.

Don't forget that bait labels will also specifiy the maximum amount of bait which can be placed (usually up to 150g with Difenacoum based products like Neokil), and NE are actively looking at baiting records to make sure that the labels are followed to the letter.

Rat burrows should be baited until bait take stops and then tightly blocked up.

Bait blocks have a number of disadvantages; they are easily relocated, attractive to slugs and snails, and not as palatable as whole wheat.
chicken feed

matt the rat wrote:
chicken feed wrote:
sod wrote:
bodger we use bait blocks, we put them in a short length of plastic pipe with a wire through holes out each end and along outside then twisted together so can even be put in the open on their tracks


we do just the same


What put them in the open on their tracks?

God, I hope not.

Relocation is a huge problem with block formulations, and that, along with the palatability problem is why I prefer whole wheat formulations.


i meant i use wire as a tie down in the bait tubes i only ever bait in the runs close to buildings etc, never in the open  

our rats must be fussy they much preffer the wax blocks to the wheat    but to keep them all happy we always have a selection of different bait for them to choose from.
sod

As CC said the point I was making was in places like we had them the rain could get at but it didn't matter and under machinery you can push under with broom etc not out in paddock sorry for that
bodger

Check this old post of mine out and you'll see why I don,t think small bags of rat poison are such a good idea.

http://overthegate.myfreeforum.org/about13.html&highlight=rats

Bags can and are moved around by rats just as easily as wax blocks, if not more so. At least you can secure wax blocks and they have to eat some before they can free them up to remove them.
chicken feed

bodger wrote:
Check this old post of mine out and you'll see why I don,t think small bags of rat poison are such a good idea.

http://overthegate.myfreeforum.org/about13.html&highlight=rats

Bags can and are moved around by rats just as easily as wax blocks, if not more so. At least you can secure wax blocks and they have to eat some before they can free them up to remove them.


i could not agree more and the empty bags are very often found blowing around the farm not good when they could blow into any paddocks or cattle yards, wax blocks are easier to tie down and secure imo, we use wire strands to hold them in bait tubes.
bodger

CF
I've quite literally come in from the farmyard after putting some poison down. I've threaded four blocks at a time onto wire and then fastened the wire to a log of firewood, before dropping them down the back of the kickboards in the stable and in the log store. They might be able to move the blocks about but because of the log they wont be able to drag it out into the open.

On another point, although regulations may have changed with regard to the permanent placing of rat poison, I still firmly believe that prevention is better than cure.
I've previously kept rat poison down around our holding for long periods of time and I think that this practice has been instrumental in me never having a heavy infestation of the little brutes. I can't see the reasoning behind this change in regulations but if you think that most farms show signs of rats on occasions throughout the year, then in practice, I can't see that my present regime needs to changed very much if at all.
I also keep my Fenn type traps set all year round and in this way,  if any rats fall prey to them, then I have the opportunity to put even more poison down. Traps tend to be a good indicator that you may have some newcomers on your place. Traps alone might catch that first rat that comes to suss your place out but traps alone will very rarely sort an infestation out. Its not rocket science.
matt the rat

If the plastic bags are properly secured (either jammed into the lid of a bait box, or with a securing rod pushed through) there is no problem with relocation.

It is however, essential that the correct amount is in the bag in the begining.

Whether we all like it or not, the law is changing, and permenant baiting is now not allowed.  In theory, no  baiting programme should last more than 35 days, and frequent follow up visits must be carried out while baiting is going on.

I've been in this game a long time, and the old sandwich bag trick has been around longer than me.  In all those years, and hundreds of tonnes of bait, I've never had a problem with it.
sod

We have the bait pipes under machinery etc all the time for same reason bodger, don't think any laws about it here SO FAR!!!!!!
chicken feed

we only bait where we have seen traces of rats the bait tubes are checked daily and when we are certain we have eradicated the rats we stop baiting (and keep a eye out for new signs elsewhere   ).

this method works well for us if we act qucikly we can keep ontop of the problem, years ago we would have a pest controller in but his weekly visits never seemed effective enough now we do it ourselfs we are ontop of the problem.
bodger

The first one for 2012. Happy new year Roland.  I have six of these tunnel traps around the place armed with Fenn 'type' traps.



















I've got sufficient poison down but needless to say, this trap has been quickly reset.
Lorrainelovesplants

can I ask how big they were?  Not obvious from the photos...they dont look 'young'....

Weve seen some large (well, bigger than a mouse size) holes appear under the large chicken shed, despite baiting.  Think we'll get some wax blocks.
Cant move the shed, but would love to gas under it with something.  Possibly exhaust of the quad bike piped under?
bodger

This one was a smallish to average sized rat.
hopefullbry

So is that a mk4 ?   Great when you have traps set going to check them and you have caught    

Nice 1
bodger

I've been checking them for days Bry and I was almost as suprised as the rat.
sod

Lorraine we have done that after blocking all the holes we could see and it seemed to get rid of a lot of activity around place for a long time, well worth a go I recon  
donky7

great results............

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