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Daft question involving wood

This seems to be the least inappropriate place to ask this.

I have just extended the height of my little trailer and built a removable lid for it, all done with recycled (honest officer) timber etc.
The ply I've used for the lid has a series of holes, in a straight line running from front to back. Whilst I could just screw another spar along the lid I would prefer something a little smarter, to that end I have acquired some moulding, approx 1" wide and 1/4 thick, of sufficient length.

Now the question, and thank you for bearing with me thus far.

If I glue the moulding in place (using Evostick wood glue) and then cover it in a couple of coats of yacht varnish, will it be weatherproof?
The glue is (I think) designed for indoor use, but the varnish should protect it from the elements. The lid is braced around the edges to prevent twisting.

Over to the woodworking experts for advice please, if you need them, I can post pictures later.

The quick answer is no. You really need to use a construction grade exterior water proof glue or marine grade wood glue on stuff that is open to the elements.

Modern yacht varnish is nothing like what it use to be: an extremely hard wearing cellulose based dope, and these days what is on sale is a very inferior product with some brands only suitable for interior finishing. Clear cellulose lacquer would be about the nearest thing to real yacht varnish.

However if it is only a bit of a stick of thing as you describe, an epoxy resin type adhesive will do the trick. A clear 5 minute epoxy would both stick it down and provide a decent looking clear gloss finish.  

Thank you, I knew someone clever would come along and know what I was talking about.

or Gareth !

Did you get the job done 12 Bore?

Procrastination is the thief if time...I've finished the sides and devised and built a door assembly for the rear, the lid is built, I just need to cut and finish the covering strip, glue it in place (I have bought the epoxy   ) and seal it off. There's no great rush, so I'm taking my time and doing as good a job as I can. It'll prolly look carp to anyone with a modicum of skill, but I'll be happy with it   Should I be brave and post piccies for you all to laugh at when it's done?

photos please not to laugh at but to see it

12Bore wrote:
. It'll prolly look carp to anyone with a modicum of skill, but I'll be happy with it   Should I be brave and post piccies for you all to laugh at when it's done?

Nothing to be ashamed of: I am only a mediocre general woodworker, but I do the jobs and projects to the best of my abilities and they all seem to come out good in the end.

Here's an old fashioned way of sealing in a wooden coachroof or trailer lid.

Get some decent primer and some canvas [ enough to cover said timber in one piece ] paint on a good layer of primer, whilst still wet lay on the canvas, stipple it down inot paint, then re paint. Again whilst wet.

Once dry, a light scuff with 120 grit abrasive paper, re coat with a good top coat.

Often used on boat coachroofs, trailer tops and even caravans.



Dont you worry about how it looks , you got up of your butt and made something , well done

Thanks folks, I'll get some pics up at the weekend (if it's stopped raining by then) for you all to chuckle at.

woodbutcher  now you say that I remember seeing it many times  

PVA glue is good for water proofing too Try painting over it We used on scout tents years ago as water proofing was far too dear and it worked for 3years.

Ok, here it is.
Constructed using "salvaged" 4mm ply and framed with "salvaged" timber. All fixings are concealed, inc the 6mm bolts which are hidden under the lip of the original body. The white line between the trailer and the extension is weather sealing strip, compressed to prevent water entering the trailer, the sides also extend into the original trailer.
The tailgate slides in aluminium tracking, "rescued" from the depths of the cellar at work, and has a weather strip behind it.
The lid has a 10mm square frame around the lower edge to prevent water ingress, and the rib on top seals the holes in the salvaged ply.
All it needs now is for the lid to be sealed and for me to acquire x4 over-centre catches for the lid.
All in all, I'm actually quite chuffed with it



There is absolute nothing wrong with your woodworking there mate It's a nice tidy job that actually looks something..... much better than the usual DIY wooden extensions fitted to trailers that are often seen out and about.

I agree with the comments made regarding PVA. Two years ago I mixed PVA into the Cuprinol water based wood preservative I used to coat the inside sections of our picnic tables, and it has really made a difference to the plywood.

Would you believe it! this morning I am actually repainting one of our plywood picnic tables again ..... I repainted it with a dark Brunswick green tractor enamel 2 weeks ago, but I do not like the colour, much preferring the gloss pea green I mixed up for the first picnic table. Anyway, I decided to to redo the cuprinol on this second table before painting the gloss pea green on and the plywood is in exceptionally good condition.

My water based bucket chemistry has not ended there: for the exposed edges of the exterior plywood I have concocted my own special mix: 6 parts water based cuprinol wood preservative, 3 parts water based clear gloss acrylic varnish, and 1 part PVA. This very odd concoction of mine is extremely weather proof and durable, and can be applied by brush, roller and through a spray gun.

Not only have the exposed edges of the picnic tables been done with this, but so has the wooden seat of our (my) sledge (yes, I know I'm the biggest kid on the block ), and also a lot of other exterior wood work we have dotted about the place. This mystical wood preservative recipe of mine is weatherproof, durable and robust, but it also looks extremely good.

This morning's work in progress;


Great job on your trailer as Gareth said much neater than most seen and well made  

Looks a great trailer job 12Bore.  

And Gareth, think its great you still have a sledge, never too old to have fun mate  

Thanks folks, like I said, no craftsman me, but I'm happy with it and it will work.  
Rick Harris

PVA wood working glue

PVA wood working glue isn't truly water proof.

In principle PVA is highly water resistant and for general use it will resist rain, damp etc BUT if you get it really wet for a while it will let go.

There are waterproof wood working glues on the market - Some based on PVA chemistry but more usually  based on Casein (a by product of milk) Cascamite is a common one. A white powder you mix with water to activate it.
When dry it is permanently water proof.

Aerolite 304 is recommended for boat building.

We took it to Wales and back last week, no leaks and still looking good!

Great news  

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