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RoyB

bdooly moss!

What I laughingly refer to as my lawn is completely covered in thick moss, and it is in all the paths as well. I have decided to have a blitz on it, and managed to pick up a little electric scarifier from Homebase last week, knocked down to 9.99 from 14.98. In actual fact it is a leaf collector but the little wire tines do a pretty good job of raking out the moss.

Recommendations are then to treat the area with lawn sand, and after some online investigation I discover that J. Arthur Bowers appear to be the best value. A garden centre near Newbury sells 25 kg bags at 9.99, and they loan a spreader to make the application easier and more even.
Alice

I used to pull the moss out of my lawn and use it to line my hanging baskets  

I had great baskets but the lawn wouldn't have won any prizes.
lizzie44

Your lawn will look a right mess after you apply moss killer. If its a really bad infestation then most of it will go brown or black and look awful. Scarifying is a better option. O.K so you wont completely get rid of the moss but at least you wont have to look at an eyesore for months!! I live with my moss - its a problem with shady lawns but at least it stays green in the dry weather. Love Lizzie
Border

I use a mixture of salt and water to kill any moss I have in the lawn.

Not keen on using weed killers because of the dogs.

I have also heard that 50/50 bleach and water will also kill moss, but I have never tried it.
Christine

Roy you have the proper instructions and you should do as you've discovered.

I've worked in lawn care for millions of years and suggest that you do a proper jobs with it. Mind you - what is the cause of your moss?

If you ground is very compacted then you will need to aerate as well to allow air in and water to drain away. Most people do that anyway after removing moss.

Once you have been through all the palavar of moss killer, scarify, aerate, reseed - make sure that you don't cut the lawn too short again. I'll bet that's what has been done over the years.

Oh and remember to cut your grass "round the clock" - across, diagonal, down, the opposite diagonal - each time you cut it. That encourages strong root growth and stops the grass just growing in the line of mowing.

Don't put any version of lawn feed on the results of your labours till well into the late summer to let the lawn get it's feet down. Don't cut it very early either and then cut it "high" not short.
Border

Christine,

seeking some prof advice as you have been in the lawn business for years, are you saying that it is unwise to use salt water to kill mose, if so can you please tell me why.

I don't really like to use any weedkillers in the garden, so salt water seem a good idea and does the job.
Christine

Cos salt leaves residues in the soil. Unless you want to grow dune plants that don't mind sea water it's not really the best of things in qunatity to kill moss.

You'll be affecting the PH of the soil and a build up over the years could have a surprising effect.

I remember one of our new allotment holders sending off a soil sample for analysis and being asked why he had used sodium chlorate? He hadn't - the previous plot holder had to cure the weeds and then couldn't grow anything so gave up. The new tenant had to wait some three or four years before he could (he ran ducks and geese for the time). You could be going the same way with your salt.

Well that's my opinion, experience, thoughts for what they are worth.  
Alice

lizzie44 wrote:
I live with my moss - its a problem with shady lawns but at least it stays green in the dry weather.


That's how I always looked at it  
Up here, my poor apology for a lawn is 90% clover. That stays nice and green too  
Border

Thanks, for your opinion it has been noted.

My lawn is about 1 1/2 acre, the area that is effected by moss is a very shadey area under some ash trees, soil is heavy in fact it is yellow clay a spade stick down, maybe 500 -600 sq meters so putting lawn sand down would be a very expensive way to deal with the moss.

Have you any good cheaper methods of dealing with moss.

If I fenced the area in for geese and ducks I would have no lawn at all never mind the moss.
RoyB

Christine wrote:
Roy you have the proper instructions and you should do as you've discovered.

I've worked in lawn care for millions of years and suggest that you do a proper jobs with it. Mind you - what is the cause of your moss?

If you ground is very compacted then you will need to aerate as well to allow air in and water to drain away. Most people do that anyway after removing moss.

Thanks for your comments, Christine.

The moss is almost certainly caused by the shading of large trees to the south, and probably by my cutting regime. I have tended to use a Flymo all the time, which is probably not the best method.

As far as drainage is concerned, the moles keep very busy on most of it, so it is probably not too compacted, but I will try to find the energy to aerate it in due course.
Christine

Border wrote:

If I fenced the area in for geese and ducks I would have no lawn at all never mind the moss.

That would be a perfectly good way to clear the moss sir so long as you have a use for the ducks and geese.

It would give you time between now and then to make lots of home made compost to work into the soil and also to cut back the trees come autumn. Then next spring you could put in your compost to improve the soil and go for a cheap bag of grass seed know that the soil was well fertilised.

Not such a daft idea as it sounds when you think about it. And you'd not have to cut the grass for a year.   Just a passing thought.  
RoyB

bdooly moss!

Wow, I didn't expect the moss-killer to be so effective.

I decided to use just sulphate of iron rather than lawn sand on the recommendation of a friendly neighbourhood farmer, who gave me a bag of the stuff and a spreader.

I spread the sulphate all over the mossy area yesterday afternoon, and just as I had finished there was a light shower of rain. Within an hour or two the moss had started to blacken, and is now looking very unhappy.

I'm not!

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